Marc looks to Hepburn

Marc Jacobs is New York's darling, so when he throws a fashion show it is a dead cert that the city's great and good will turn out to support him. Last night, celebrities including Liv Tyler, Daryl Hannah, Helena Christensen, Donald Trump and Pulp's Jarvis Cocker were on hand for the unveiling of his collection for autumn 2004.

Across the Atlantic, the British high street was also watching what Jacobs unveiled. No front row seats for British retailers - instead, they must content themselves by studying the images transmitted over the internet almost as soon as the show ended. From these they will take direction on what to fill their rails with, for Jacobs is one of the most copied designers working today.

His vision for autumn wasn't an easy one, but if Katharine Hepburn is your style icon then you'll be a happy woman. Chiffon pussybow blouses were worn under scoop-neck cashmere tank tops, while V-neck cardigans with thick ribbed waists were another Seventies feature. And don't call the trousers trousers - call them slacks, as befits the era.

Culottes came in leather or corduroy. Colours included berry reds, grapes, soft camels and wedgewood blues.

Strongest were the coats with bracelet sleeves, wide shawl collars and trademark large round buttons. Weakest was the evening wear. This being Oscar season, there were several diaphanous satin dresses but they lacked the grace of his day wear.

Even Gisele Bundchen, returning to the catwalk after an eight-month hiatus, struggled to make a deep grape gown look lovely