Macdonald goes for broke

It was a make-or-break collection. Since being appointed to the house of Givenchy in March 2001, Welsh designer Julien Macdonald has been plagued by rumours that he is not up to the job. It's all very well putting soap stars in barely-there dresses, carped the critics, but the venerable Givenchy needs a lighter, more sophisticated touch.

The critics were silenced last night as Macdonald sent out his best couture collection yet. It may not have been on a par with the artistry of Chanel or Lacroix, but it wasn't bad for a 29-year-old who is obviously still learning the ropes. Striking the right balance between sophistication and sex appeal, it ran the gamut from soberly tailored chalk-stripe suits to lavish ball dresses suitable for Oscar night.

Mindful of Givenchy's heritage, Macdonald's designs harked back to the heydey of Audrey Hepburn: a perfect little black cocktail dress with an oversized bow and a short backless shift dress in duchesse satin. Such outfits were a million miles from the trashy aesthetic which informs his own ready-to-wear line. They proved that Macdonald is capable of understatement after all.

Despite rumours that Macdonald's contract will not be renewed next year, Givenchy denies any rift. It also denies that Hedi Slimane, a highprofile menswear designer at Dior, has been lined up to take his place. Slimane pulled off a huge coup by dressing Sarah Jessica Parker in a Dior Homme suit at the Golden Globes.

It is this sort of celebrity endorsement which Givenchy hoped to rein in with its appointment of Macdonald, whose own label enjoys a starry clientele, including Jodie Kidd and Kylie Minogue. So far, high-profile customers have failed to materialise at Givenchy.

However much improved this collection may have been, it could still be a case of too little, too late. Until the tills start ringing, Macdonald's future will hang in the balance.