Lords of the undieworld

There is a rumour that, if asked nicely, the shop girls in Agent Provocateur will happily model the underwear for clueless male customers; items that include tasselled bras and, most thrillingly, an "open brief" (a pant in which the most significant part appears to be missing).

Disappointingly, for the fund manager and bicycle courier alike, it's an urban myth. Even so, come Christmas there's still a queue of men waiting to buy something saucy for their wives, girlfriends or mistresses.

Not so long ago, if men bought underwear - and not so many did - invariably it was a standard red ensemble, tossed across the bed with a smirk. But times have changed, largely thanks to Agent Provocateur.

The first branch, in Soho, opened nine years ago with the aim to fight prudery and put lingerie on the fashion agenda. Now, it has sparked a wealth of imitators, from Myla to Love Kylie.

David Beckham was spotted buying his 'n' hers matching Agent Provocateur diamanté whips, while Victoria Beckham is soon to be seen sporting its polka-dot baby-doll nightie in her new video.

Therefore, I can think of few better ways to while away a day than by joining the cute-as-a-button shop girls to see if men really do know what they're doing these days.

Apart from anything else, the uniforms are bubblegum delicious and I spend a significant amount of time staring at my cleavage (push-up bras are compulsory) and adjusting my fishnet hold-ups (also standard issue).

My fellow shopgirl, Sarah-Lou, who comes from Salisbury, loves working here. "They've got it so right: it's pink, it's fluffy, it makes you feel amazing." However, she admits that there are a lot of men "who think we're something we're not. They want to know what happens upstairs. And if we do massages. We ask them to leave."

Usually, the ratio of male to female shoppers is 50-50. But today, in the pre-Christmas rush, the number of male customers has shot up to 90 per cent, and Sarah-Lou is keen to quash the myth that they are hopeless in lingerie shops. "Most know exactly what they're looking for, especially if they are spending hundreds of pounds," she says. "Instead of buying what they want to see their girlfriends in, they choose something she will like. We won't have queues of women returning items come January."

My first customer confirms Sarah-Lou's verdict. He's supremely confident. "I'm looking for a thong and matching bra," he announces. "My girlfriend's 32B, and mad about pink." Ten minutes later, and £160 down, he leaves with a pink-and-orange polka-dot set. Another very meek-looking man in suit and spectacles asks without a hint of embarrassment: "Does this satin corset come with panties?" My heart swells with pride.

At lunchtime we are deluged. John, an American, isn't at all bashful and says that New Yorkers have always bought underwear for their wives. Andy, a designer in his thirties, says he is here to check out the shop itself. "My girlfriend buys her underwear here, so I was curious. I love the Fifties-style push-up bras." Sarah-Lou tells me to expect the post-lunch crowd to smell of alcohol. "They will usually have a few drinks to pluck up the courage to come in."

There are others, a particularly confident minority, who quite happily march to a cabinet containing articles such as the collar-and-cuff set with connecting chains for £195 (although, contrary to the other popular myth that most men come here to buy for their mistresses, nobody I served seemed eager to pay only in large wads of cash).

Nevertheless, the really big spenders are still female; I served one City worker who spent £3,000 without blinking an eye. And even though men have made indisputable progress, I still noticed that many declined to carry their purchases out of the shop in the lovely pink and black bags. Then again, green sequinned nipple tassels do slot so neatly into a briefcase between files of invoices and half a ham sandwich.

Agent Provocateur, 6 Broadwick Street, W1 (020 7439 0229) and 305
Westbourne Grove, W11 (020 7243 1292)