London Fashion Week opens with tributes to 'leading light' Alexander McQueen

London Fashion Week opened today with a minute's silence in memory of Alexander McQueen.

The Prime Minister's wife, Sarah Brown, who officially opened the event, paid tribute to the designer as hundreds from the industry listened with bowed heads.

Many in the audience of models and designers had tears in their eyes as chairman of the British Fashion Council, Harold Tilman, said the "genius" who was found hanged last week was "one of London's leading lights".

Mrs Brown, wearing an Erdem dress, said: "I've no doubt this will be a creative and inspiring fashion week and no doubt a reflective time with the sad passing of Lee McQueen."

A memorial wall erected in the catwalk tent in Somerset House was quickly covered in tributes from McQueen fans.

Stuart Rose, the boss of Marks & Spencer, wrote: "Great talent that will not be forgotten", while architect Zaha Hadid left a note which said: "Such a great loss, will be much missed."

In an emotional speech, Mr Tilman said: "Join me in sharing both respect and reverence for the passing of one of our greatest British designers, Lee McQueen. His impact on London and this international fashion industry has been extraordinary. And he will be sorely missed."

He said McQueen's transformation from an under-performing schoolboy in Hornchurch to one of the most celebrated designers in the world should be an inspiration to the capital's fashion students. "[McQueen] proved that this industry and city is one of opportunity, he left school with one O-level and with a good mix of determination, hard work and genius he became and will remain one of London's leading lights," he said.

"He has inspired so many to establish their own collection and has influenced many designers. I feel that ensuring London, his home city, continues to grow as a global fashion centre and will be a fitting tribute to this brilliant man."

Culture Secretary Ben Bradshaw, who also attended the opening, described McQueen's death as "a desperate loss". The 40-year-old designer hanged himself eight days ago in the wardrobe of his £1 million Mayfair flat on the eve of his mother's funeral, an inquest has heard.

French retail group PPR which controls the McQueen label announced yesterday that the brand will continue after his deal and his clothes will still be shown during Paris Fashion Week on 9 March. Today's show kicked off with Paul Costelloe's collection.

Citing film The Assassination of Jesse James as his inspiration, Dublin-born Costelloe presented the audience with a collection of structured coats, big bustled skirts and lean cigarette-cut trousers.

Colours which ranged from cornflour blue to mustard were punctuated with pieces in grey, black and shimmering metallic, while the main fabrics at play were heavy-duty tweeds, flannel and brocade.

The highlight of the collection was an ankle-length coat in herringbone tweed. The low was a series of rather questionable ruffle-detail brocade dresses.

Highlights from this weekend's shows are likely to come from Henry Holland who shows his House of Holland label tomorrow and from Matthew Williamson who is due to unveil his latest collection on Sunday. London Fashion Week continues until Wednesday.