King of fashion

Ossie Clark's murder in 1996, at the hands of an ex-lover, was a dark end to an increasingly dark life, plagued with bankruptcy, drug addiction and depression.

Yet in the 1960s, when Kings Road and Carnaby Street were the twin fashion capitals of the world, Ossie Clark was God, making clothes with a startlingly accomplished technical flair, an instinct for the female form and a raunchy, irreverent naughtiness that was perfectly of its time.

No wonder the wildest stars in the rock firmament clamoured for his clothes.

Royal marriage

Ossie graduated from the Royal College of Art with a First, a double-page spread in Vogue and a contract with chic Chelsea boutique Quorum.

In 1969, he became half of the most legendary partnership in fashion when, despite his not-so-latent homosexuality, he married textile designer Celia Birtwell.

Celia was both his emotional rock and creative muse; his exquisitely sinuous cuts and her swirling designs helped define one of the most glamorous periods in history.

Apparently, demure smocks and dresses packed hidden punches. Take Ossie's black moss crépe wrap dress printed with bluebells; its long skirt, high waist and puffed sleeves recall a quasi-Regency restraint. Look closer, however, and a plunging back and breastbone keyhole hint at the wearer's secret wantonness.

Ossie was an innovator: he was among the first to popularise the motorcycle jacket, hot pants, the maxi coat; the first to mix unusual fabrics such as wool tweed and silk chiffon; the first to move so easily between the worlds of rock and fashion.

But the licentiousness of the decade sat ill with the hard-nosed commercialism that was beginning to penetrate fashion - and Ossie belonged firmly to the 1960s.

Divorce from Celia in 1975 saw an end to the goose that laid the golden eggs, and later attempts at revival fell by the wayside. As, in the end, did Ossie himself.

Ossie's heirs

Ironically, Ossie died just as designers such as Tom Ford at Gucci were scanning the recent past for inspiration.

Stella McCartney, Marc Jacobs and John Galliano have all since created collections that claim direct provenance. Now, a mini-retrospective at the V&A explores Ossie's formidable craftsmanship, his glamorous clients and the piquant results of his collaboration with Birtwell. Visitors will be able to see the dress worn by Celia in Hockney's famous double portrait and wedding gift, Mr and Mrs Clark and Percy. Maybe the true end of Ossie Clark will not be so dark after all.

Ossie Clark at the V&A, Cromwell Road SW7. Tel: 020 7942 2000, www.vam.ac.uk Entrance free. From July 15 to May 2, 2004.