None of these marvellous institutions exists any more, but, 20 years on, it is still possible to be both frugal and healthy. Dear old Food for Thought is still there on Neal Street, dishing out stir-fried vegetables and rice for less than a fiver, and Islington's best-kept secret is Ravi Shankar on St John Street, where two very greedy people can eat delicious, vegetarian, southern-Indian food for about £15; you can also eat as much as you like there on a Sunday for the same price - make sure you wear trousers with an elasticated waist.