Close your eyes and, thanks to her Yorkshire accent, Barker sounds as homely and warm as an old blanket, the kind she might hurl casually over the back of a sofa. But, in truth, she is as canny as they come. The hair is bleached blonde, the waist tiny (she credits this not to dieting, but to her passion for yoga, to which she devotes many hours of her time). Her manner is bubbly and, ostensibly, unguarded - but you struggle in vain to get her to say anything remotely controversial, even when it comes to her pet subject: taste.