Calvin's out in print

Calvin Klein is not best known for sofa-like Seventies prints. The king of plain neutrality would rather die than use a pattern in his collection. But Calvin Klein womenswear is no longer designed by Calvin Klein: the reins have been given over to one Francisco Costa, a Brazilian-born designer who has previously worked with Gucci, Balmain and Oscar de la Renta.

And in last night's collection for the house, Costa's disparate influences certainly showed.

Klein sold his business to US shirt-maker Phillips-Van Heusen last December for an estimated $500 million (£320 million). His hugely lucrative underwear and jeans lines are owned separately by Warnaco.

Van Heusen is keen to modernise the Klein womenswear label, and although Costa has only been with the company for a year, they believe he is the right man for the job.

The collection was a confident one, and in the crisp white shirts layered over pristine white polonecks, the spirit of Calvin remained intact.

But the Seventies prints which appeared on A-line skirts and trench coats were a departure, though a welcome one. The American market has never seemed to tire of Klein's simple, pareddown minimalism but the rest of the world had been getting a trifle bored.

Klein's underwear and perfumes will always sell in shoals, but the womenswear itself, under his rule, had all but fallen off the fashion radar. Exciting it most certainly was not.

While lizardskin shoes, cashmere cardigans and strappy silk evening gowns were all expensive and refined enough to have Klein's core market drooling, there was a drawback to this spring 2004 collection - in parts it bore a striking resemblance to a certain Italian label.

Peachy cashmere V-necks worn over white shirts and teamed with pleated skirts were too reminiscent of Prada's autumn collection, shown in Milan back in March.

Still, there is a market for Prada-lite in the US. Prada's difficult mustard and green colours are too tricky for Americans: Klein's muted oyster, teak and taupe colours will go down far better.

Stalwart supporter Bianca Jagger was in the front row joined by producer Pharrell Williams and artist Jeff Koons.