A STONKING Congo adventure in which Daily Telegraph correspondent Tim Butcher endeavours to follow in the footsteps of Henry Stanley on his famous expedition to map the 1,800 mile river. But much has changed since the 1870s. There are few roads and no more railways, boats, brass bands or hippos ("everything edible had long since been shot"). Fighting rages, disease is rampant; the daily death toll tops 1,200. Butcher starts off stubborn, blithely defiant to his colleagues' doomy warnings. He winds up sad and chastened: "The Congo stands as a totem for the failed continent of Africa."