Yming is a cut above the average

When it comes to choosing a Chinese restaurant, a good rule of thumb is not to go south of Shaftesbury Avenue. There are exceptions, obviously, but in my experience the Chinese restaurants on Shaftesbury Avenue are better than the ones in Chinatown itself and if you venture north into Soho the food gets even better.

A case in point is Yming on Greek Street. It's not the best Chinese restaurant in London - that accolade probably belongs to the Michelin-starred Yauatcha on Broadwick Street - but it may be the best value. In the latest Harden's, for instance, it's ranked among the top five Chinese restaurants in London in the 'Under £45' category. Pitched squarely at the middle-class theatre crowd, Yming offers well-cooked Chinese food for around £35 a head (including wine). It also has the distinction of being owned by Christine Yau who, in addition to being a community leader, was involved in setting up courses in Chinese cuisine at Westminster College.

You can tell Yming is a cut above the average as soon as you cross the threshold. Unlike traditional Chinese restaurants, the décor is subtle and understated - the colour scheme is jade rather than red, black and gold. The waiters, too, aren't your usual assortment of extras from a noir thriller. Far from being insolent and offhand, they're quite anxious to help you find your way round the menu. At one point, as I was placing my order, the head waiter told me I probably wouldn't be able to eat everything I'd asked for and should cancel one of my main courses. I was so astonished I almost fell off my chair.

A quick glance at the specials also tells you this is no ordinary Chinese. For instance, there's Jonathan Miller's Sea Bass, which, according to the menu, is 'hot, spicy with tiny hint of sweetness as preferred by Mr Miller'. In case you don't find this very reassuring - he's an opera director, isn't he? - there's an even more ringing endorsement under the double-braised pork: 'Highly recommended by Matthew Fort of The Guardian, Jay Rayner of The Observer, Jonathan Meades of The Times, soft and tender.' (That's the pork that's soft and tender, not my colleagues.)

My companion and I had been to the theatre beforehand and by the time we sat down at 10.30pm we were famished. (This may go some way to explaining why the waiter felt compelled to tell us to calm down.) To start with, we ordered prawn rolls with almond flakes, crab meat rolls and a quarter of crispy aromatic duck; and to follow up we had emperor's vegetables with prawns and scallops, Tibetan garlic lamb and the double-braised pork. Everything was good, but the pork really was outstanding - a melt-in-the-mouth sensation.

We didn't ask for any pudding, but our waiter must have felt guilty about telling us to cancel one of our orders because he brought us a complimentary plate of little fried balls. What's inside, I asked, picking one up and rolling it between my forefinger and thumb. 'Bite it and see,' he said. I did as instructed and was amazed to discover it was a delicious combination of chocolate and toffee.

This turned out to be Yming's take on the deep-fried Mars Bar. 'We are only Chinese restaurant in London serving this dish,' boasted our waiter - and I can believe it. I've never had a deep-fried Mars Bar before and I had no idea it would taste this good. My companion and I debated whether to get on the next train to Glasgow.

All in all, this was a memorable feast. Christine Yau is going to have to add my name to the list of critics who love Yming.

Y Ming
Greek Street, London, W1D 5DL