Haselgrove Shiraz, McLaren Vale 1998 (Safeway, £7.99). A dense, tightly packed wine ideal for a dense, tightly packed district like Hammersmith. The wine, like the borough, has delicious hidden treasures tucked behind a slightly dull fa?ade. This Shiraz is less brawny and upmarket than some of its South Australian neighbours (Chiswick and Kensington, perhaps?) but is a lovely, big, ripe mouthful when you get to know it. Arriviste Hammersmithites might shell out for Haselgrove's 'H' Shiraz from the same vintage for special occasions. This is the winery's sumptuous, dark, brooding flagship wine (Safeway, £21.99).