Wine Box: Value for money

Is a £30 bottle of wine really ten times better than a £3 bottle? It's a question that sparks vehement argument. To some extent, you pay for what you get. But there are exceptions.

The success New World wines have had here stems from their reputation for offering good value for money, which in itself is pleasing enough. But isn't this a bit simplistic? There are hundreds of brilliant Oz wines, but there are also many shockers. Many other areas, such as Eastern Europe, also make excellent cheap wine. So how much do you have to pay for something really special?

Much depends on what you perceive as expensive, when you plan to drink it and what food you plan to marry with it. Try these for size:

Asda Sicilian Red 2000 (Asda, £2.77). You want cheap and cheerful? This is it. OK, there's not much sophistication but it's soft, fruity and a great everyday red to glug down with lasagne on a wet night at home.

Duna Oaked Chardonnay 2000, Balatonboglar, Hungary (Waitrose, £3.99). A rounded, full-fruited, easy-drinker with judicious use of oak. Perfect with seafood (not fish 'n' chips - vinegar kills off any wine).

Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2000, Casablanca Valley, Chile (Sainsbury's, Oddbins, everywine.co.uk, £9.99). A portion of the Errazuriz La Escultura Estate Chardonnay is fermented with yeasts that occur naturally on grapes. These add complexity and a creamy texture. This price tag is cheap for a wine brimming with scents of roses, apricot and tropical fruit. Sometimes, a tenner a bottle is money well spent.