Wine Box: Up the Chardonnay

Has the world gone mad in an attempt to simplify wine into one all-conquering white grape? Listen to the snippets of mindless urban mythology chorusing around London's dinner tables and you'd think the spread of this grape had life-threatening parity with suicidal hijackers and nuclear war.

It's just so trendy to slag off Chardonnay. Ill-informed claptrap. I cannot understand how this two-bit legend gathered such support. What next? A bust-up on Big Brother as the house splits into Sauvignon and Chardonnay factions? Chardonnay haters, go back and try again. No, do. I insist...

Shaw & Smith Reserve Chardonnay 1998, Adelaide Hills (Safeway Fine Wine stores, £18.99). Big price, huge wine. Rich fruit and oak combine to drive this powerful temptress along at warp factor nine. Sip this beauty on its own or pair with poultry, veal, fish and pasta.

Fruits of France Chardonnay 2001, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Sainsbury's, £3.99). Long live Chardonnay in all its chameleon guises. Stunning value - dry, clean, soft and bright, yet rugged enough to mix with any chunky, grilled fish or crisp salad scattered with smoked lardons.

Terramater Reserve Chardonnay 2001 (Wine Rack and Bottoms Up, £6.99). Lip-smacking Chilean fruit-charged thumper. Hint of oak? No, forests of it. Impressive, muscular partner to just about any fresh fish you care to name.

Previously on Wine Box