Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1998 (Tesco, limited availability, £22.99). If you grew up drinking raffia-covered bottles of Ruffino (as I did), you might gag at the thought of paying this price for a Chianti, albeit Classico. But if drinking one fine bottle instead of guzzling three is your idea of a perfect evening, this ripe, fruity, high-octane red might be the answer. An example of the Sangiovese grape used to its best effect. Great with a few slivers of fresh parmesan.