Wine Box: The Next Big Thing

The topless swimsuit, 3D cinema, the Sinclair C5, Cimino's movie Heaven's Gate, Rubik's Cube, Rolf Harris singing 'Two Little Boys' - movies, melodies and artefacts we would, perhaps, rather forget. But each, in its time, was the Next Big Thing. In the Eighties, Chardonnay was another Next Big Thing. But even Australian winemakers won't plant any more of this over-subscribed grape.

OK, Chardonnay is here to stay - who in their right mind would dig up vines from superb Burgundian domaines? But aren't we a tad bored of those massively oaked, bulk-production whites from South Eastern Australia? So where does this leave us? Where is the Next Big Thing for the humble Brit wine drinker?

My guess is that die-hard New Worldies will slowly drift back to the Old World, particularly France, Spain and Italy, as quality continues to improve and prices fall. Here are examples of the styles of white wine we might expect.

Domaine Paul Mas Caude Val Sauvignon Blanc 2001, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Waitrose, £4.49). Serve blind to friends and see how many are convinced it's New World. It doesn't have the crisp mineral acidity of Loire Valley Sauvignons. Instead, it has superb aggressive citrus and gooseberry characteristics, yet with more balance than a high-wire act. An excellent ap?ritif.

Berberana Rioja Viura 1999 (Co-op, £4.49). We see the Rioja name and think red wine. Sadly, we often forget the local white grape, Viura, which can produce some astonishing wines when handled with care. This is a traditionally styled, dry, full-bodied white with a subtle vanilla overlay from new-oak barrels. A great partner for tapas.

Ch?teau Recougne, Bordeaux Blanc 2000 (Wine Rack, Bottoms Up, £6.99). A good example of how tradition is mixing well with imported technology. Citrus fresh, slightly floral, with apricot, pear, melon and a hint of lychee. A delight with chicken, pasta and seafood.