Wine Box: Sweet surprises

Sweet wines have an image problem in Britain. Perhaps because of past associations with low-grade, cheap sweet wines - think cheap German or Frascati - or possibly because pukka 'stickies' can be hard to come by, we miss out. At best, sweet wines can be palate-throbbing, Proustian experiences. But many wine drinkers are far from convinced. Check your local supermarket and you will certainly find some pudding wines - but economic rules apply: low demand, small shelf space. So, if you wince at the thought of sweet wine, I challenge you to try some fine bottles and, I hope, having done so, you'll never view them in a dismissive way again.

Caluso Passito 1990, Boratto (Balls Brothers, 020 7739 1642, half bottle £13.50). Quite astonishing. This unctuous and honeyed Italian is made from Erbaluce grapes which are hand-harvested then dried on rush mats to concentrate the sugars. The juices are then naturally fermented slowly over winter and matured for four years before bottling. A perfect partner for any really sweet pudding. It will knock your socks off.

Miranda Botrytis Semillon, 1998 (Bordeaux Direct, half bottle £8.29). This award-winning mix of Semillon from the Riverina in New South Wales and Rhine Riesling from the Kiewa River Valley, Victoria, has powerful marmalade and passionfruit aromas from the Riesling and peach, fig and pear from the Semillon. Great value for a very gutsy sweetie. Serve now or drink any time over the next eight years.

Tawny Liqueur Wine, Veritas Winery, Barossa Valley (Lay & Wheeler, 020 7329 0308, £9.89 or in half bottles). A moreish fortified wine. It's rich with concentrated nut, raisin and toffee flavours (sounds more like a chocolate bar). More an alternative to port than a pudding wine. Well worth trying.

Tokay Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive, 1990, Hugel (Waitrose Direct, 0800 188 881, £28.95). A less full-on pudding partner but this late-pick beauty is still powerful yet retains delicacy. Hugel makes superlative Alsace wines and 1990 was an excellent vintage. For my money, this is one of his best.

Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos, 1990 (Hilltop Neszmely, Safeway, 50cl, £9.99). Great value. This deep amber Tokaji has bags of complexity ? apricots, marmalade, raisins, citrus, honey. You can fill the larder with one bottle.

Ch?teau le Payral Cuv?e Marie Jean Saussignac, 1996 (Enotria Winecellars, 020 8961 4411, £12.49). Imagine the syrupy flavours of a box of glazed fruits mingled and liquefied in a glass. This is one of the best French sweet wines to be found outside of Sauternes. Tr?s g?n?reux, tr?s ?l?gant.