Merlot, Vin de Pays de la Cit? de Carcassone 2000, Caroline de Beaulieu (Sainsbury's, £3.99). The soft, meaty texture of this new-style, fruity French red gives it an edge over many humdrum Vin de Pays. Lots of plum, spice and blackcurrant make for a wine with a vibrant personality. Terrific value, easy-drinking superplonk.