Wine Box: Summer whites

Anything goes in summer. The rules are relaxed. You want to strip off in the park? Nobody cares. You want to drop an ice cube in your glass of Chardonnay? OK. You want to pour some orange or cranberry juice into your white wine?

Fine. A few glasses on a cloudless evening, while the barbecue sears your steak, can be of any wine you like as long as it's cold. This is the time to have fun with wine. Don't be limited by convention, try new ideas and new wines.

On a steamy evening recently, after a wonderful afternoon's cricket, a friend appeared with a glass of Vouvray mixed with orange and grapefruit juices, a slice of cucumber, a sprig of mint, a maraschino cherry and a bright yellow straw. 'What is that?' I asked. 'It looks ridiculous.' 'Everything I could find on the drinks table,' came the reply. 'Why not taste it?' I did. It was delicious.

So that's it - summer drinking in a nutshell. No imperious sniffing or twirling, no detailed analysis of the wines, no discussion of grape, vintage or winemaker, just refreshing drinking. Try these - have fun.

Babich Semillon/Chardonnay 2000, Gisborne (Asda, £5.99). New Zealand Semillon is a lot less aggressively grassy than it used to be - and often a lot riper. Mixed with the peaches-and-cream style of Gisborne Chardonnay, it gives an absorbing mouthful of flavours: fresh, balanced and invigorating. Perfect with a huge bowl of salad ni?oise.

Domaine d'Antugnac Chardonnay 1999, Vin de Pays de la Haute Vall?e de l'Aude (Berry Bros and Rudd, 0870 900 4300, £5.45). This is an elegant surprise not typical of Languedoc-Roussillon. One taste and you might think the acidity and mineral style come from Burgundy. A lovely, gentle white with a honeysuckle and honey palate. A real treat for the price, and ideal for a long evening's drinking.

Albari?o Martin Codax 2000 (Majestic, £7.99). Tongue-tingling, fresh, peachy, balanced white from Rias Baixas in northern Spain. If you've tasted Vinho Verde in Portugal, you'll know the style - it's the same grape - but the Spanish make it with more elegance and panache. A stonking summer brew to astound everyone at your alfresco party.

Reserve St Marc Sauvignon Blanc 2000, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Sainsbury's, £3.99). Bargain basement, maybe, but there's nothing raw or rugged about this breezy white. It is full of apple and grapefruit flavours and has enough ripe acidity to make your lips quiver. Stock the fridge full of it because it won't last long on a hot summer's day.