Wine box: Sniffing out fine wine

'Does this make you horny, baby?' asked a woman friend in an Austin Powers voice when sampling a new perfume. OK, she was making a joke. But it reinforced my contention that we humans are far more driven by the allure and repulsion of smell than we realise. Smells count.

Most experienced wine tasters will explain that they can explore a wine more by smell than taste. But what should you be aware of when sticking your nose in a glass?

First check if the wine smells fresh and clean, then assess the intensity of the aroma, this can tell you a lot - for example, herbaceous smells can suggest less than fully ripe grapes; spice and toast aromas give an indication of oak ageing; tropical fruit smells hint at long, cool fermentation; buttery/dairy smells are a sign of a style of fermentation which reduces acidity and adds complexity and flavour (known as malolactic fermentation). It may sound technical to the uninitiated but just try sniffing a few different wines and see how often you spot these smells. You will be amazed - I promise. You might like to try something from this eclectic selection and make a few notes about what you smell.

Q Familia Zuccardi Malbec, 1998 (Asda, £8.99, limited availability).
The Mendoza region is the heartland of Argentine winemaking and, in my view, it's now the best place in the world to grow the varietal Malbec grape. Dark, ripe, vibrant and lush, this intense red has an almost gamey style and a bulldozer-proof structure. Ideal partner for game and roast meats. Pick out aromas of ripe blackberry and blackcurrant plus some wafts of plum jam. Juicy doesn't get much juicier.

Shepherds Ridge Chardonnay, 1999 (M&S, £7.99).
OK, we know Chardonnay is the most widely grown grape in the world, but this New Zealander demonstrates how vast the influence of climate and winemaker can be. It smells crisp and fruity yet has slight buttery aromas and a hefty waft of spice and vanilla. What does this tell you? Some acidity (cooler-climate grapes); a small amount of malolactic fermenting (those dairy smells); aged in oak (the spice and vanilla). Good to accompany fish, salads or pasta.

Penfolds Botrytis Semillon, 1998(Sainsbury's, £5.99 for a half bottle).
Pudding wines are made from grapes affected by 'noble rot' (botrytis) - a painstaking process that produces a very sweet, golden wine. This Oz sweetie is great value and has potent aromas of honey, peach and a hint of stewed cabbage. Terrific with sticky toffee pudding.