Wine Box: Rich pickings

'Would you like a glass of champagne?' 'Er, no thank you.'

Be frank, how often have you heard that exchange? Seldom, I'd guess. Good champagne is a treat and rarely refused. There is something about its style and price which suggests good living. In short, it's classy. But aren't we forgetting many wines which don't have the cachet of champagne but, in many ways, are equally special? There are plenty of them - wines which are well worth the extra cost; wines which will be remembered as milestones in a lifetime's wine drinking; wines which are every bit as good for an impromptu celebration. Here are, in my view, a few fine bottles which will give great pleasure for around the same price as you pay for good champagne.

Cuvaison Carneros Reserve Chardonnay, 1997 (Waitrose Direct, 0800 188 881, £19.95). Top-quality Napa Valley producer who has excelled himself with this scintillating melon-and-cream flavoured Chardonnay. Subtle yet powerful. Buy now, argue with the bank manager later.

Gew?rztraminer Grand Cru Sonnenglanz Vendanges Tardives 1997, Bott-Geyl (Majestic, £18.99 for 50cl). If you enjoy a fine balance of sweetness and acidity this intense, complex, late-pick Alsace is a belter. One of the best Alsace wines I've tasted recently.

Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Sp?tlese, 1995 (right, Waitrose, £12.49). From one of Germany's most respected winemakers, this is a fine sweet ap?ritif or a great partner to salmon. Sadly, when recently tasted, there were dissenters. 'Too sweet' and 'a real disappointment' were two comments. I thought it far better than that.

Chambolle Musigny Antoine Chatelet, 1997 (Wine Rack, Bottoms Up, £20.99). Exceptional burgundy red with knockout strawberry and raspberry nose and great balance. Well worth every penny.

Guigal C?te R?tie, 1996 (Sainsbury's, £19.99). Bags of spicy plum fruit combine with great length and weight in this classic Rh?ne red. Taste one bottle and you'll probably go back for another. And why not?

Marques de Riscal Rioja Gran Reserva, 1989 (Safeway, £15.99). When pandering to the whims of fashion, it is easy to forget just how good Rioja can get. This fruit-laden, amazingly complete red will help you remember.