Wine box: Pleasing the in-laws

My mother-in-law always waters down her wine. Fine claret or cheap Italian, the ritual is the same.

Nevertheless, she gives her opinion. 'That is nice,' she'll say. Or, if it doesn't appeal, she politely says nothing.

Likewise, my father-in-law adores a good wine. They both claim not to know much about wine but can tell what's good and bad. Both are in their seventies and endured the hardships of war, rationing and years when any wine was a luxury. Compared to the blas? views I often hear today, their responses are refreshing.

The trick when taking wine for Sunday lunch is to select a mid-range bottle (extravagance would meet with disapproval) with powerful or unusual flavours. Remember, these are people who have tasted many wines in their lives - but tend just to stick to a 'dry French red' or 'sweet German white' - so something a little out of the ordinary like these will delight.

La Domeque T?te de Cuv?e Vieilles Vignes Syrah, Vin de Pays D'Oc, 1997 (Asda, £5.96). Gutsy, spicy and very full-bodied Languedoc red which has powerful aromas of black fruit. Enough to knock mother-in-law clean out of her chair.

Fortant de France Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays D'Oc, 2000 (Waitrose, £3.99). Crisp and lime-zesty, this perfumed, aromatic white is made to drink young. Excellent with oriental dishes or as an ap?ritif.

Tesco Finest McLaren Vale Grenache, 1999 (£5.99). Big can be beautiful, as this South Oz belter will testify. Heaps of almost syrupy-sweet red fruits matched with an appealing, dusty dryness. Mouthwatering alongside Sunday roast.

Seaview Pinot Noir/Chardonnay, 1996/97, traditional method (Safeway, £8.99). There are some fizz-lovers who rate this perennially reliable Oz sparkler above many champagnes. Vibrant apple fruit and nutty softness give it charm at a very decent price. Mum-in-laws will see it as a treat.

Albert Mann Tokay/Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive, 1996 (Lay & Wheeler, £16.95 for a 50cl bottle). Breaks the budget by a mile but is a sublime experience for any ageing parent who likes sweet wine. It is unctuous, heady, luscious and a perfect match for foie gras or Roquefort. A birthday tipple, maybe?