It's great to defy convention, which is why I often serve red wines on hot summer days when everyone expects chilled white. I'm not being awkward, it's just that while whites can be great as an ap?ritif or with salad or seafood, gutsy reds are essential for barbecued food. And for a cheese course, summer reds make eminent sense. If we have any warm days left, fire up the coals and stock up with hearty reds.