Wine Box: Going Organic

Why are we Brits so shy about our wine knowledge? In truth, compared to most countries in the world, we know a great deal. That's not to say everyone keeps a cellar book, pastes in labels and decants by candlelight. But if you're a regular wine-drinker, just think how many varieties of wine from different countries you've sampled in the past year or two.

The choice on London's shelves is stunning. With one exception - organic wine. Here the choice is limited. France produces the most organic wines, but the rest of the world is catching up. Organic production is labour intensive (there's a lot of weeding by hand) and, generally, small scale. Hence it's expensive and retailers won't give it shelf space.

But that is changing. Bigger winemakers are taking an interest, prices are dropping, quality is improving and more is arriving on these shores. And, for no particular scientific reason, hangovers from organic wine seem less severe (at least in my experience). Here are some organic labels to look out for:

Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 (Oddbins, £8.99). This classic, midweight, Californian Cabernet has powerful blackcurrant and cherry flavours with lots of toasty vanilla from French oak barrels (not very common in the States). Drier on the palate than you might expect, but a great pairing for any gutsy pasta dish.

Ch?teau La Tour du Marechal Chardonnay 2000, Vin de Pays de l'H?rault (Safeway, £4.99). Although three-quarters of French Chardonnay production is in Champagne and Burgundy, the grape has swept southwards - with varying results. This is one of the better organic examples. Nectarine and honey mix with a nice nuttiness on the palate. Delicious with a plate of smoked haddock and fresh asparagus.

Sauvignon de Touraine 1999, Domaine de Pontcher (Majestic, £4.99). This is a palate-tingling crisp, ripe white with good acid balance and a cascade of lime, lemon and gooseberry flavours. A mouthwatering, drink-now brew that's tangy enough to match spicy food. Bring on the chillies (organic, of course).

Ch?teau Haut-Nouchet, Pessac Leognan 1997 (Vintage Roots, 0118 976 1999 or vintageroots.co.uk, £11.75). A rich claret with a touch of in-built austerity. Any veneer of dryness in the aroma is broken by delicious blackcurrant fruitiness mixed with soft tannins in the mouth. A gorgeously full, balanced and sensuous red that will impress even old-fashioned claret diehards. Just don't say it's organic - far too ? la mode.