Wine Box: Going green

Should wine be marketed as 'environmentally friendly'? Given that some people drink too much of it and their surroundings suffer the consequences, there may be an argument for it being regarded as an environmental hazard.

That aside, many winemakers, particularly in France, are striving to have their vineyards classified as organic. Whether the resulting wines are noticeably better is still a moot point.

But there is little doubt that those using organic techniques do make a high percentage of fault-free wines simply because of the loving care that is taken both in the vineyard and the winery. Here are some to try:

Ch?teau de la Fessardi?re Muscadet 2000 (Sainsbury's, £4.99). Lovely crisp and crunchy organic white with excellent acidity and huge depth of flavour for the price. Nice edge of minerals on the palate makes it a natural partner to seafood. Perfect with a plate of oysters.

Castello di Arcano Pinot Grigio, Fruili 2000 (Waitrose, £6.99). 'Seven quid for a Pinot Grigio?' I hear you mutter. Ah, but try it. It's wonderful stuff - crisp, refreshing, with terrific fruit concentration. Ideal with any Italian dish, particularly pasta.

Corbi?res Terra Vitis 2001 (Majestic, £4.99). Not fully organic but grown in 'environmentally friendly vineyards', this is a really smooth, rich and elegant wine for the price. Lovely flavours of strawberry and plum make it a great match for grilled meats and salad.

Previously on Wine Box