Wine Box: First glass of the day

How do you hold a wine glass? If you answered, 'In either hand', then we're on the same wavelength. Black-belt wine snobs insist glasses should be held by the stem, not by the bowl. But who cares? Sadly, these punctilious types also describe wine as if it were a living being: 'Good-humoured, benevolent and cheerful - slightly obscene but none the less good-humoured.' Show me the door, please!

The real test of any wine in my book is whether or not you enjoy it, however it is served or described. Everyone has a different palate, so if liebfraumilch from a three-litre wine box served at room temperature is your preferred tipple, go for it (although you may be in a distinguished minority of one for the occasion).

Whatever your preference, what we all long for is that first glass of the day. The ap?ritif. You stand in the garden, aromatic smells of ready-made Thai supper waft from the microwave, shafts of westering sunlight glow amber in your glass of chilled Chardonnay. Ah, heaven. So what are the good bets for that pre-prandial treat?

West Coast surprise: Fetzer Dry Gew?rztraminer 1998 (Tesco, £6.99) is proof that not every wine made from this grape has to taste like a tin of unctuous lychees. The Yanks have made this zippy, floral number with just a hint of tropical fruit. Savour every mouthful. Fetzer also makes a fabulous, creamy, candy sweet Viognier 1998 (also Tesco, £7.99).

French elegance: Gold Label Chardonnay (M&S, £4.49) is a good stock French Chardonnay with subtle flavours of peach and pineapple. Not too heavily oaked. Ideal to continue drinking with your home-cooked lobster or crab.

German marks: Kendermanns Dry Riesling 1999 (widely available, £3.99) is a smooth, rich, exotic fruited German Riesling that recently beat a range of Oz Rieslings in the Sydney Top 100 wines competition. Great value ap?ritif. Buy three.

More gooseberries: white Bergeracs are too often derided. Some are now brilliant. Bergerac Blanc 1999 (Waitrose, £3.15) is an example of the delicate floral and gooseberry style now so prevalent in south-west France. Inexpensive and versatile.

Oh so magical: for something really distinctive try dry, tangy, almost savoury Juran?on Sec, Chant des Vignes, Domaine Cauhap? 1997 (Young's Direct: 020 8875 7008; £7.95). It has a mercurial balance of fruit and acidity. Make whoopee while stocks last.

Keeping tradition: for some, sherry remains the summer drink. Fiestas start this way. Chill a bottle of Sanchez Romante Fino Marismeno (madaboutwine.com, £9.99) and you'll see what I mean.