Wine Box: Fake your fizz

'Oh, so this isn't real champagne?' I've heard this a few times at weddings, christenings and other special occasions. Each time I wanted to strangle the person who said it.

What ungrateful snobbishness, to be invited to a family celebration and expect your hosts to shell out £200-plus for each case of champagne. There are plenty of 'traditional method' sparkling wines which are a good substitute, easier on the pocket - and who the hell notices after six glasses, anyway? You can try to pass them off as 'champagne' but my tip is to be honest and, if asked, declare what you're serving from the start.

The best sparkling wines are made from ripe fruit with high acidity, and Champagne is the best region in the world for this combination. The snag with many sparkling wines is that the high acidity needed can only be achieved by picking under-ripe grapes. This makes the finished wine less vivid and balanced. Nevertheless, some ain't bad at all.

Functional fizz: Safeway Cr?mant de Bourgogne NV, Lugny (£6.99): a good punt with yeast aromas and a lively, complex palate.

Tesco Vintage Cava: a small ray of Spanish sunshine that should liven most rain-soaked weddings. Crisp, light and citrusy.

Safeway Bottle Fermented Chardonnay Brut, Trentino (£5.99): fresh, forward and with a fine mousse. Good-value Italian.

Jacob's Creek Sparkling Chardonnay/Pinot Noir NV, Orlando Wyndham, widely available (£6.99): this creamy, fruity and biscuity South Oz bubbly is first rate.

Bubbling up: Cuv?e Napa Brut NV, Mumm, California, widely available (£9.99): well-balanced with a clean finish, this US fizz shows off its French pedigree.

Green Point Brut Vintage 1995, Domaine Chandon, widely available (£11.49): some bottle age brings this Victorian sparkler nearer true champagne style. Refreshing with seductive acidity.

Cloudy Bay Pelorus, Marlborough, Sainsbury's (£14.99): cool-climate New Zealand sparkler with golden hue, great balance and deep nutty flavours. Shame it comes at champagne price.