Wine Box: Drinks party bottles

Call me old-fashioned, but I love grown-up drinks parties. Not all-evening sessions, but semi-formal, pre-dinner gatherings for a couple of hours. Just enough time to meet a few people and say hello to some old friends, without anyone drinking too much and lurching into a stupor - alcohol preserves everything, except dignity.

Thirty years ago, early evening parties were all the rage. Favourite drinks were either martinis, gin and tonics or whisky and ginger ales/sodas. G&Ts survive - just - but when was the last time you heard anyone ask for a scotch at a drinks party? Vodka with a mixer is a more common choice than either of these. Heading today's wish list, though, is the ubiquitous 'glass of wine'.

The relentless rise of wine has, in part, resulted from a greater interest in all things gastronomic, but also from our wish to find an enjoyable, more health-conscious ap?ritif. Here are some good wines for a lively drinks party.

Ch?teau de Targ? 'Les Tuffes' 1998 Saumur Champigny, Loire, France (left, Waitrose, £6.99). Soft, fruity, fresh and approachable red that's best served slightly chilled. Delightful hints of strawberry, loganberry and cherry wrapped up in a very moreish mouthful.

Montana Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, 1999 (Asda, £7.92). Phew - a heady blend of apple, lime and lemon that rips over the tongue like a breaking wave full of zesty flavour. A ripe glassful that will disappear before you can say 'gin and tonic'.

Cairanne Domaine de l'Ameillaud, C?tes du Rh?ne Villages, 1999 (Unwins, £5.99). A good, mid-range Rh?ne red with languid aromas of herbs atop a bright, fruity core. Will put zip into any party.

Tumbarumba Chardonnay 1999, South Eastern Australian (M&S, £7.99). M&S has been slow out of the starting gate with its Oz range but is, at last, catching up. This above-par pear-and-peach-scented Chard has good acidity and is easy-drinking enough to please the party faithful.

Orchid Vale Medium French Chardonnay/Grenache Blanc 1999, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Sainsbury, £4.99). Less raw than many French regional offerings, this slightly sweet white has mouth-tingling hints of apple peel, citrus and honey. Party on, dudes.