Wine Box: Cheeky Chilean

It is, in fact, a very old grape variety once grown all over Bordeaux before the vine pest phylloxera wiped it out at the end of the 19th century. What no one realised was that a few cuttings had been taken to Chile before phylloxera hit and, until a couple of years ago, everyone thought the vines were Merlot. Bottles with Merlot on the label unwittingly used to contain a high percentage of Carmen?re, but now the difference is scientifically clear-cut and the two grapes have been identified and separated (Carmen?re is also sometimes called Grande Vidure).

Now we're starting to see soft, rich, spicy Carmen?re bottled on its own. Who knows? It could become Chile's great wine which no one else in the world makes. Here are a couple to try - plus some other top-value Chilean wines.

William F?vre Don Victor Carmen?re Reservado 1999 (Berry Bros, 0870 900 4300, £9.95). Terrific quality for less than a tenner. Smooth, rich and well-balanced with a lovely hit of spiced mulberry. Delightful with a big slab of goat's cheese.

Santa Innes Carmen?re 1999 (Tesco, £4.49). A good starting point if you're a Merlot lover but have never (knowingly) tried Carmen?re. This robust, fruit-filled, spicy red will fuel any midweek supper. A match for most meats.

35 South Sauvignon Blanc 2000 (Asda, Safeway, Sainsbury's, Waitrose, £4.79). This Lontu? Valley white has a big hit of gooseberry acidity plus well-rounded pineapple and papaya flavours. Perfect with fish and pasta.

La Palmeria Reserva Cabernet Merlot 1999 (Sainsbury's, £5.99). In my experience, nothing bad comes out of Vi?a La Rosa's winery - and this is no exception. Lovely structure, heaps of dynamic fruit and a soft, rounded, drink-me quality. Buy lots and see how fast it disappears.

Casa Lapostolle Cuv?e Alexandre Merlot 1998, Rapel Valley (Safeway, £13.99). Bursting with colour and oozing vibrant, plummy fruit - this is why we buy Chilean reds. An expensive but succulent treat.

Leon de Oro Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (M&S, £9.99). Another super offering from Vi?a La Rosa, this is a huge stew of red and black fruits beefed up with six months of oaking in French barrels. Intense stuff to jostle with the Sunday roast.