Wine Box: A lesson in taste

What is it we like about wine? It's surprising how many of us know what we like in a wine but cannot explain why we like it. This is a very brief explanation of everything you wanted to know about tasting but were afraid to ask. What should we look for? Most important is to assess the body, acidity, sweetness, alcohol and tannin in the wine. First, swirl the glass to aerate the wine and inhale. Any 'off' smells will let you know if the wine is healthy. The aromas might also give you a clue to grape variety, which will give an idea of the wine's origin. The depth and intensity of the aromas help establish the age and quality of the wine. You should be able to tell what you want to know about a wine from its aromas. The taste should then confirm what you have sniffed. Take a good mouthful of wine and, er, chew it. Is it dry or sweet? Is the acidity high or low? This gives clues to grape variety, age, origin and style - for example, high acidity suggests under-ripe grapes, certain grape varieties, cool climate or youth. The tip of your tongue picks up sweetness, the sides of your tongue gauge acidity, and you'll spot tannin on your gums and on the inside of your mouth. A fuller style - a more weighty wine - indicates higher alcohol levels. Here are a few bottles I've selected to highlight different aspects of wine.

Casanuova di Nittardi Chianti Classico, 1998 Young's Direct, 020 8875 7008, £9.95). Aromas of concentrated fruit and herbs give way to an elegant structure with smooth tannins. Just run your tongue over your gums after tasting this Italian red and you will notice the powerful tannins - exactly the same effect as drinking strong, cold tea (but much nicer, of course).

Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc, Awatere Valley, 1999 (First Quench, £6.99). Heaps of gooseberry, asparagus and herb aromas dominate in this crisp, fresh and full New Zealand white. This 'cool climate' Sauvignon Blanc has plenty of acidity which will zip down the sides of your tongue when you taste. Spot it?

Familia Zuccardi Q Merlot, 1998 (Waitrose Direct, £8.99). This meaty, elegant and spicy Argentinian red has a huge structure with bags of sweet, ripe fruit. The sheer weight of the wine, like many South American reds, indicates high alcohol - in this case 13.5 per cent. Phew.

Ch?teau Pierre-Bise, Coteaux du Layon Chaume, 1996 (Lea and Sandeman, £11.95). Loire Valley sweet wines are often overlooked. This peach-and-honey-flavoured glycerous white is one of the juiciest I've tasted. Look out for those ripe, sweet flavours tingling the tip of your tongue.