The Crescent ***
99 Fulham Road, SW3 (020-7225 2244).
A small, ground-floor bar in the middle of a parade of South Kensington shops leads to a much bigger basement bar and restaurant. The list of more than 250 different offerings - 25 by the glass - makes for a directory of some of the finest global wines. The wines are keenly priced, but the best plan for some true bargains is to keep your eye on the bin-end list, which heavily discounts end-of-the-range stock.