Wagamama dethrones Nobu

A chain of budget noodle bars has beaten the aristocracy of London's restaurant scene in a major survey. Wagamama, which has 21 branches in London, knocked fashionable Japanese restaurant Nobu off the top spot, which it has occupied in the previous three guides to eating out.

And it beat illustrious names such as The Ivy (3rd), Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's (4th) and Le Gavroche (10th).

The chain, founded in 1992 by legendary Michelin-starred restaurateur Alan Yau, won the accolade in the 2006 edition of the Zagat guide to London restaurants.

Zagat guide editor Sholto Douglas-Home said: "Wagamama's ascendancy is all the more surprising given that it doesn't take reservations and seats diners at communal tables - hardly the traditional hallmarks of a high-scoring restaurant, yet typical of Londoners' growing desire to dine informally."

He said the popularity of Wagamama comes at a time when spending on ostentatious dining is sliding out of fashion. By contrast, the inexpensive Wagamama offers super-efficient service and minimalist interiors as well as "comforting Japanese fare".

Fans include TV presenter Jonathan Ross, Chris Martin of Coldplay and his wife Hollywood actress Gwyneth Paltrow and Little Britain comedian Matt Lucas.

Ian Neill, chief executive of Wagamama, said: "It's cool to get value for money.

"It's the same phenomenon as women who buy a pair of Chloe jeans but will also go to Topshop.

People will still want to go to Nobu but they can't go all the time and they will get good food if they come to Wagamama."

The chain has been steadily climbing the rankings since the first Zagat guide appeared in 1997, when its restaurants were only ranked 35th best in London. By last year it had reached third spot. This year's guide, based on reports from nearly 5,000 diners, found that the average Londoner eats out an average of 2.4 times a week.

This is less than in Paris or Los Angeles - perhaps because of the capital's higher prices.

The average cost per head of a meal in London rose five per cent last year, from £35.14 to £36.79 compared with £21.32 in New York and £18.12 in America as a whole.

Nina Zagat, one of the cofounders of the guide, said: "Wagamama is a wonderful restaurant that provides many of the things that people are looking for. It's casual, the food is good, it's a fun place and (it's) very reasonably priced."