Vista beats the Japanese vittles at Oxo

It's only just opened, but this joint is already jumping like an established fave. Why? Not the standard modern Japanese dècor my companion described as "like a gloomy Wagamama" as we sat on hard wooden benches, largely ignored by geisha girl hostesses prowling past us in slinky dresses looking as authentically oriental as a prawn pot noodle.

But look at the location: on the second floor of the Oxo Tower, with jaw-dropping river views. The picture postcard tableau of St Paul's did jar surreally with our Japanese-themed surroundings, but at least it distracted us from the mediocre vittles.

The menu pretentiously declared, "In Japan the Ganko Ojisan are the keepers of the flame, acolytes who are devoted to the details of the fire and learned its secrets, appreciate its subtleties and respect its temperament" - which perhaps explains the many chaps in little hats tending a long BBQ along one wall.

And why this is the only Japanese restaurant I've been to without sushi on the menu. Boo.

Instead grilling is the thing, specialising in yakitori, essentially chicken sticks, so we had a couple of momo - fresh but forgettable chicken - at £1.20 a mini-skewer, and also edi, a prehistoric-looking tiger prawn tasting like a fluffy old sock, £2.50. But my pork belly buta, £1.30 a skewer, was a succulent hit. As was my tai, £3.80: the "mixture of rice and green tea mixed with Japanese pickles" turned out to be a moreish kind of hot broth.

In the end, the tapas-style orders all felt like glorified bar snacks.

Now there's a thought: chuck the tables into the Thames, get in a DJ, have the geishas doing shotgun sakes and they'll be fighting off the punters with chopsticks.

Bincho Yakitori
2nd Floor, Barge House Street, SE1 9PH