Veg out at E&O

E&O (Eastern and Oriental) is ubertrendy - a fact reflected in its decor and clientele. But it has not always been renowned for its inventive array of vegetarian food - which is a shame. The menu is, happily, as assorted as the customers.

Dark, wooden-ribbed walls are lit by stylish, oversized lampshades, included refreshing thinly sliced ginger and spring onions, along with delicate pieces of tofu and broccoli. Dim sum of roasted coconut, pomelo and betel leaves was succulent. These flavours were enhanced by a little red onion, peanut and a tangy, sweet sauce.

Mushroom-and-water-chestnut greentea dumplings had ample filling and were surprisingly light and pleasing to the palate. A tangy asparagus Thai basil and red nam jihm salad again included peanuts, which were given a praline quality by the zesty sweet dressing, coriander and red onion.

I had never had avocado and sweet potato tempura before and they proved fantastically uncomplicated, subtle yet indulgent. They went well alongside thousand-leaf, inside-out maki, which was out of the ordinary, pleasingly light and flavoursome. Ginger noodles arrived with bean sprouts, which added crunch.

The wine list has a good mix of potent Old World and fruit-driven New World wines. We indulged in Falaco Amarone di Valpolicella, 1997 (£37). Stylish, and indulgently large, wine glasses might have helped this heady Italian slip down a little too easily.

Pudding lovers should spare some space because, worthy of note, the chocolate pudding (allow 20 minutes), once broken, erupts with a lava flow of melted chocolate. It comes with a delicious scoop of green-tea ice-cream.

We could have chosen one of the teas (sencha green tea, jasmine, peppermint, lotus, and so on) to cleanse our palates, but we had no room left. I felt this place delivers on every level.

You get what you pay for, in the best sense (the bill for two was £118, including 12.5 per cent service). But I came away feeling both respected and content.

E&O has an 18-seat private dining room downstairs, for anyone planning a very special party.