Twice as nice at Genevieve

Brothers Adam and Charles Breeden bought themselves a new toy for Christmas. It came in the form of a new bar which was unwrapped in December on the site of the old Jac's bar - but it seemed for a while that these boys, like many nippers at Christmas, didn't want their toy played with by anyone other than themselves.

Nor could they decide what name to give it. It seems they were going full-speed ahead with the name Genevieve (which appears on all their publicity), until someone had a change of heart and thought that Lonsdale House sounded more upmarket (anything with the word 'house' in tends to sound grandiose). So, for the time being at least, they are using both names.

My first three visits ended in failure: 'Sorry, private party, guest-list only tonight.' On my fourth visit I was assured of entry as friends who were warmly ensconced inside had called to invite me over. 'Sorry, private party, guest-list only tonight,' said a different man on the door.

I tried to convince the powers that be that I was a legitimate guest, and a long wait ensued while they went off to check my credentials. 'Humiliation' is such an understated word when you're shivering in the cold on a dark and rainy evening. The red rope was eventually lifted and I was granted access to all areas.

The enormity of the six-month conversion job became immediately apparent. The ground floor has been vastly extended to incorporate a huge, comely lounge bar, and the upper floor is now home to a smaller, more intimate affair and will apparently become some sort of VIP room.

Once I got over the shock of the giant silver bubbles decorating the walls, and the feeling that I was taking a psychedelic journey through a giant Aero bar, I came to the conclusion that I was in one of the more accomplished design jobs I'd seen in some time. Far too often new venues look fabulous when empty, but when you put customers into the frame the picture is spoiled. Here tables are far enough apart to allow for intimacy, yet close enough together to lift the atmosphere when busy.

The drinks list includes some superior brand spirits which are used to make fabulous cocktails prepared by a team taken straight from London's A-list. Try the Lonsdale Lemonade, with Buffalo Trace bourbon shaken with fresh lemon juice and honey water and served long over crushed ice (£7.50). And fans of a traditional Old Fashioned should enjoy the Treacle, a Havana seven-year-old rum stirred with apple juice, sugar and orange bitters (£7.50).

The food menu might not ignite fears in neighbouring restaurants, but they offer a very good range of nibbly dishes such as crispy duck (£9), Saltimboca chicken (£7) and a plate of sushi (£5).

Lonsdale House (or whatever you want to call it) is a cracking venue, but people I've sent along since have all reported difficulties getting in. My guess is that people will eventually get fed up of this unreliable door policy and move on to other venues. The Electric Brasserie on Portobello Road always served me well when I couldn't get into this place.

Lonsdale
Lonsdale House, 44-48 Lonsdale Road, W11 2DE