Tweaking the Tabernacle

Based on first impressions, I'd say Tabernacle seems destined for a major role in the long-running Shoreditch Saga.

The character of this handsome Victorian printworks has been allowed to breathe through in a self-assured refit. Original vast picture windows and washed London brick sit well with the designer's sweeping granite-clad bar, dark polished-wood floors, well-judged seating and quality fittings.

The grown-up vibe will appeal to fans of the nearby Great Eastern Dining Room. Decoration is pared back to a few sculptural floral pieces, otherwise it's all about space and people - an about-right mix of creatives, acceptable City types and Hoxton stragglers.

Cocktails delivered value and quality, while a bar snacks menu - an imaginative mix of nibbles, tapas and mains-sized dishes - proved irresistible. Both crispy deep-fried squid, braised endive and smoky tomato chilli jam and a crumbly buffalo mozzarella, minted pea salsa, creme fraiche and chilli oil were top shouts, while a portion of punchy chorizo and date was good, if a bit stingy. A swimmy sabayon reduced a perfectly good salt beef sandwich to mulchy Jewish baby food, but it was tasty enough all the same.

There's a seriously fit 60-seater restaurant attached: I'll be giving that a go soon. The only really bum note was the acoustics. At a quarter of the 220 capacity, the din, added to by indiscernible thumping beats, was draining. Tweak that and I promise to become a regular worshipper at Tabernacle.

55-61 Tabernacle Street EC2. Tel: 020 7253 5555. Tube: Old Street

The Tabernacle
55-61 Tabernacle Street, Hoxton, EC2A 4AA