Turkish delight at Savorana

Turkish grub is one of the few cuisines that's badly represented in London but this addition to the Old Street area restaurant scene is a start towards redressing the balance.

Savorana is beautifully done out, as befits a venue trying to pull picky locals: leather and dark wood bar upstairs, tasteful khaki walls and plush white chairs downstairs, with low lighting and judicious use of wrought iron throughout.

And the food is really good. Dolma were wellstuffed peppers, vine leaves and rolled filo pastry stuffed with spinach and Turkish sausage that was impressively non-greasy.

My lamb knuckle wrapped in aubergine was sweet, tender and simply enormous, while the kebab had nothing in common with your post-party takeaway: moist kofte (lamb meatballs) and well-spiced, if slightly dry, chicken.

In fact, only the squid parcels, which had a distinct taste of potted shrimp, disappointed, but that served us right for ordering three starters. Prices are reasonable - starters around £5, mains £12 - except for the wine list, which had only three reds under £20.

That said, our £18.50 Cabernet Sauvignon was delicious and rough enough to suit such a meaty meal. Service is unctuous, but that will probably mellow over time, and when we asked to be left alone, we were.

66 Great Eastern Street EC1. Tel: 020 7739 2500. Tube: Old Street

Savarona
66 Great Eastern Street, EC2A 3JT