Triumph of the young gun

Here's the other side of the style over substance coin. The Trading House, despite its Philippe Starck Ghost chairs and art-hung walls, looks like nothing much ('Grubby skirting boards,' sniffed a pal). But the food, from 23-year-old chef Tim Haigh, is so much more than you'd expect it to be from the surroundings.

Veal brain beignets came with the delicately fried offal as light as scrambled egg; a sharp, tarragon and caper-laced eggy sauce gribiche made the ideal foil. A mammoth scoop of the richest, silkiest foie gras parfait and pillowy brioche with onion jam were every bit as good.

A towering needle of cracking crackling soared out of a melting chunk of Duke of Berkshire pork belly with braised pig cheek. And lamb was worthy of far loftier establishment: succulent confit of shoulder mixed with white beans, a flawlessly pink and perky cutlet, foamed garlic puree and a rather hefty tortellini of Fleur du Maquis cheese.

My guest, the pickiest man in London, loved it here. If it weren't for the fact that pals went the next evening and were ignored while the chef hobnobbed with cronies, this would be a rave, rave review. Even so, if this is what Tim Haigh is doing at 23, I can't wait to see what he's up to at 30.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £110. 12-13 Greville Street EC1. Tel: 020 7831 0697. Tube: Farringdon/Chancery Lane

The Trading House Kitchen and Bar
12-13 Greville Street, EC1