Top Fives: Modern British

What does Modern British mean? It's a bit of an abstract concept - on the continuum from trad to fusion, somewhere in the middle.

1. St John

Fergus Henderson's heroic cooking is not for the squeamish. The man who's introduced squirrel on to the menu at this stark, former smokehouse is unabashed in his love of the less aesthetic parts of any number of animals.
26 St John Street EC1. Tel: 020 7251 0848. Tube: Farringdon

2. Rhodes in the Square

Gary Rhodes's oleaginous manner and vertical hairdo might irritate, but there's no gainsaying his ability in the kitchen. Gutsy cooking could include the likes of oxtail faggot on potato cake and his legendary lobster omelette thermidor is the stuff of artery-furring dreams.
Dolphin Square Hotel, Chichester Street SW1. Tel: 020 7798 6767. Tube: Pimlico

3. Lindsay House

Home to the butch and ballsy cooking of Richard Corrigan, there's a fantastic eightcourse tasting menu giving real insight into this innovative Irish chef's startling use of flavours and ingredients.
21 Romilly Street W1. Tel: 020 7439 0450. Tube: Leicester Square

4. Alfred

A kind of play on canteen culture and serving some really admirable British ingredients. Scottish salmon, smoked haddock, cleverly-sourced Stilton are all likely to appear on a changing menu. Sinful nursery puds are another draw.
245 Shaftesbury Avenue WC2. Tel: 020 7240 2566. Tube: Leicester Square

5. Kensington Place

A pioneer in the history of Modern British, this vast, noisy, glass-fronted gaff has been packing 'em in since day one. Once boho and groundbreaking but now more conservative and bespoke-suited. Still, ageing well.
201-209 Kensington Church Street W8. Tel: 020 7727 3184. Tube: Notting Hill Gate