Le Cercle
1 Wilbraham Place, SW1 (020 7901 9999) £80.
The owners of Club Gascon have introduced a similar formula of a parade of small French dishes to their new Sloane Square site, a double-depth basement designed by Keith Hobbs. It is intended as an informal meeting place but the quality of the cooking - and the superb selection of temperature-controlled French cheeses - merits a full-blown dinner.