But if you've ever wondered what the fuss is about, for the next month you can try this rare delicacy, also known as glass eels, in Scott's of Mount Street. The tiny beasts cost several hundred pounds a kilo, reflecting their rarity and the brevity of their season. Scott's chef Michael McEnearney is serving them as a starter, lightly sauteed in butter with wild garlic, vermouth and cream, at a treat-category price of £40 a portion.