Top chef's solo Italian job

This review was published in August 2002

With due respect to the Indian renaissance, some of the most exciting things that are happening on the London restaurant scene are coming from the Italian side.

So it was with some interest that I set out for Paolo, a new venture from chef Michele Franzolin. He worked with Giorgio Locatelli and at Orso and Zafferano, before becoming head chef at Spiga and Al Duca - hailed as one of the best Italians in London.

First impressions were of a large room, kitted out in the forgettable modern, clinical style. Warmth came from our waitress and the hovering presence of manager Sergio Noci; Michele popped his head out of the kitchen from time to time - seeming somewhat nervous. Starters of finely sliced tuna and a quivering buffalo mozzarella on baked aubergines were fine, with the tuna in particular standing out for its presentation.

An attempt to cover the whole menu led to us sharing a plate of pasta - Sardinian gnocchetti with sausage - which turned out to be a major error. The pasta was stunningly good - bursting with flavour, including perfectly judged fennel, its cooking a definition of al dente.

Sadly, it made our mains of salmon, with an intense honey sauce and chargrilled leg of lamb, seem rather tame by comparison. Dessert of ice-cream was OK - if too gimmicky with tough shards of coconut - but a ' homemade' chocolate cake disappointed with its lack of flavour.

Still, you can't argue with £20.50 for four courses. Next time, though, I'll stick to the pasta and have no doubt I'll come home raving about how good Paolo is.

Paolo
16 Percy Street, W1