THE RIVER CAFE
Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, W6 (020-7386 4200). Mon-Sun (Sun lunch only) £120
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The restaurant's name is gratifyingly vindicated by a table on the terrace which affords a glimpse of the Thames beyond the grassy bank. On a pretty day, risotto of spring vegetables, then a slab of wild fish roasted in the wood-fired oven, sauced with lemon juice and olive oil, followed by some of the Italian cheeses which have been selected with typical care, can be about as good as it gets. To secure a place, be prepared to eat early - and to vacate your table for another sitting.