WILTON'S
55 Jermyn Street, SW1 (020-7629 9955). Mon-Fri £100
***
Wilton's is a very senior restaurant indeed. Jacket and tie formality, service that glides with butler-like inscrutability, luxury ingredients and wallet-hammering prices. As a starter how does a 'lobster, crab and truffle omelette' sound - a snip at £22? Scottish lobsters are on the menu at 'market price' - a phrase which strikes fear into even the most spendthrift heart. If you wish to lunch on a perfect Dover sole, genuine wild salmon or perfectly cooked Scottish lobster this is the place to come, always providing that you can a) afford the price tag and b) get a table.