Time waits for no man

I subscribe to the theory that common sense is the most important attribute of successful bar operators, which is why many proprietors employ the tactic of 'soft' openings - cheap drinks, deals on food etc - to get them through the early dog days so often riddled with operational difficulties.

It's a useful ploy that invites forgiveness from customers - when you open a new venue and charge full prices from day one, operators are leaving themselves open to the potential wrath of everyone who happens to stray across their threshold.

When I first visited Albannach (a Gaelic term for a Scot), a new designer bar that has replaced the former Aberdeen Angus steak house on the southern stretch of Trafalgar Square, its difficulties were so apparent that I ended up leaving the near-empty premises after a 10-minute wait to be served - a shame, because these handsomely accoutred ground- and basement-floor bars look every inch the grown-up style venue they aspire to be.

I returned again a few days later to find the same team of staff neglecting the mostly unoccupied tables littered with empty bottles of Kronenbourg lager. After what appeared to be a customary 10-minute delay, we were approached and informed that our table was reserved. We moved, and waited a further 10 minutes before a rogue member of the waiting team eventually broke ranks and strayed past our table.

From what I hope (for their sake) is a temporary drinks menu, boasting a paltry five cocktails and six choices of spirits, I chose a Rob Roy (£7.50), an unspecified whisky mixed with Punt é Mes (red vermouth) and angostura bitters. Even at this early date in the year, I confidently predict this drink to top my list of 2005's most revolting drinks.

My mate Juliet had a raspberry and blackberry-flavoured Bellini, another contender for the same title.

To be fair, there's an interesting-looking range of Scotch whiskies behind the bar, but no means of communicating these delights to the customer - just how long does it take for someone to sit at a computer and rattle off a bit of a menu?

And I'm reliably informed that they intend to expand the cocktail list (they need to) and introduce a premium Scottish ale on draught, which I can only assume is being brewed to order as I write.

For reasons unclear to me, all of this is not set to happen until February (we could probably send a man to the moon and back before then), by which time I guess thousands of unforgiving customers will have tested this place out and vowed never to return.

I will probably go back again at some point in the distant future, as common sense tells me this place can only get better. Or perhaps I'm being unduly optimistic.

Albannach: 66 Trafalgar Square, WC2 (020-7930 0066)

Albannach
66 Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DS