Tickled Sticklebackpink

The phenomenon that is the contemporary Indian restaurant has tended towards the big and splashy: Zaika, Tamarind and the style-over-content Mint Leaf. So it's nice to see the neighbourhood joints are getting in on the act, too. The intriguingly-named Sticklebackpink is a small, intimate local.

The owners, who include head chef Mujib Rahman, have correctly identified Londoners' high style requirement, so we get pale airiness, a spiral staircase and a curious semi-submerged fireplace. The flavours are North Indian, particularly Bengali, and Rahman delivers them without pulling any punches.

A starter of Kalizee Murogh brought a savoury pile of tender chicken livers, zingy with coriander, chilli and shallots: excellent. Despite the dish being for two, the accommodating staff agreed to let us have a single portion of the Stickleback Platter: an agreeable selection of vibrantly-flavoured and accurately tandooried meats: duck, chicken, lamb and king prawns.

The mains dipped a little, though. Badami Murogh was skewered, melting chicken, but its accompanying peanut and lime leaf sauce was a little too much like sweetened peanut butter; Kachchi Pulao was a biryani arrangement of spiced lamb and basmati, seemingly baked dum pukht style under a canopy of naan bread: good, but a little dry - so the green lentil and garlic side dish was a boon. Onion and chilli roti was a leathery disappointment. Otherwise a welcome addition to the area.

Sticklebackpink
168 Ifield Road, SW10 9AF