This one's a classic

The Ealing Park Tavern is a commodious old pub on South Ealing Road. For a good many years its only real connection with gastronomy was as the place the kindly waiters at Monty's Indian restaurant would send you to wait until a table became available. Nearly two years ago all that changed when it was taken over and completely refurbished.

At the Park Tavern the new look is a comfortable one - the wood panelling and open fires remain. The main dining room is a lofty place with a busy open kitchen at the rear and the menu is chalked up daily on a blackboard. For all the gastronomic ambition, this place is still a real pub, and there is real beer being drunk by real locals. The menu is resolutely seasonal, and changes from day to day or even between lunch and dinner.

The kitchen majors in strong flavours and classic combinations - starters might include seared scallops with black pudding - perfectly cooked scallops and really good, black mini-pudding links. Or there may be a game terrine served with chutney and cornichons. The simple assemblies are good - smoked duck breast is teamed with a clean-tasting beetroot and orange salad.

Main courses carry on the theme, although there are some unwelcome early signs of 'tall food' creeping into the presentation. 'Roast pheasant, confit, mustard and cognac' translates into a juicy roast pheasant breast, a crispy confit leg of pheasant, curly kale, a rosti potato cake and a decent sauce - a good dish. Fillet of venison comes with fondant potato and a cranberry and port jus - tender meat and good gravy. Or there may be monkfish wrapped in Bayonne ham and served with a risotto.

Puds come from the 'sterner stuff' stable - chocolate cake with chocolate sauce and basil ice cream, or treacle tart and clotted cream. The wine list is gently priced and service is friendly. This is a busy place and it is worth booking.