The top restaurants for rare-breed pork

Farmers' champion: Ingredients are the star for Tom Norrington-Davies

10 April 2012

When asked to name a few of the world's rarest species you would probably mention tigers, rhinos and pandas. It is unlikely that pigs would even cross your mind. But, unfortunately, with the UK's pig industry in crisis as the cost of feed continues to soar (it has doubled in the past year), our British porkers could soon be on the endangered list.

British farmers are losing about £26 a pig, the industry is losing £3.5m every week and it is reckoned that a massive 95 per cent of the country's pig farmers are seriously considering throwing in the towel. So it is not just the pigs that are an endangered species, it is the farmers, too.

So, it is up to us to save their - and our - bacon. And while you obviously would not dream of eating pandas in a bid to save them, the rashers you put in your sandwich could help to preserve the pig. As Cumbrian farmer and Borough Market legend Peter Gott says: "If you don't eat 'em, we won't keep 'em."

The simplest way to help is to buy British - a sound decision given our farms are known for some of the highest welfare standards in the world. Look out in particular for the traditional British breeds like Gloucester Old Spot, Tamworth or Berkshire.

These big fat pigs (that's a compliment) grow slowly and need to be reared outdoors where they eat like, well, pigs, taking about 28 weeks to fatten up, thus costing-their farmers a pretty penny in grain.

The very fact that they demand so much food and time means farmers who rear them need to be rather devoted to the breed: a good sign for diners that they are eating well-bred meat when they order.

But how much longer will they be on the menu? Gott reckons we have already lost 25 species of domestic farm animals to the call of "commercial viability" in the past 30 years.

Yes, we will save a few pence buying pork from intensively reared foreign pigs (bulked up over only 16 weeks with the aid of antibiotics and growth promoters), but there will be something missing: flavour.

The connoisseur's choice is the Middle White. Rated endangered by the Rare Breeds Survival Trust - meaning there are fewer than 200 breeding sows left - it is revered in Japan where they know a thing or two about luxury foods.

Peter Weeden, chef at Paternoster Chop House in St Paul's, is a huge fan. His comes from Huntsham Farm in Herefordshire, which is the porcine equivalent of going to Harvard. Weeden praises its superior fat, beautiful sweet meat and "the best crackling in the world".

He also likes Berkshire pigs, well-known pork pigs (rated vulnerable with 300 breeding sows left), with their short squat chops and good compact shoulders. Then there are the ginger Tamworth pigs, again with only 300 breeding sows left, well known for their temperaments. This breed is loved for excellent, tasty bacon.

Though the saddleback (at risk, 500 left) has the misfortune of bringing to mind the saddlebags we develop when we over-indulge, this breed is a beauty, offering great crackling and flavour.

You do not have to eat out to help the cause - buy rare-breed pork this weekend for your fry-up or Sunday roast. At Borough Market, Peter Gott's Sillfield Farm stall will sort you out with Cumberland sausage (£8.80/kg), dry-cured bacon (£3.95/220g) and some traditionally made black pudding (99p). Or try butchers Ginger Pig (at Borough or in Marylebone) for a rolled shoulder of Tamworth pork from their North Yorkshire farms (£8.50/kg). Simply cook very slowly at a low temperature then serve with apple sauce and heaps of roasties.

However, if you're feeling lazy, here are six top restaurants serving rare-breed pork.

The Landau
Andrew Turner's haute cuisine "grazing menus" may fall into the posh nosh camp but he does not shy away from flavour. Braised pork cheeks and smoked belly of Large White with celeriac, leeks and truffles (£26) or pigeon with homemade white sausage (£16) show off his team's superior skills.
Langham Hotel, 1c Portland Place, Regent Street, W1 (020 7965 0165)

Great Queen Street
Tom Norrington-Davies champions great farmers and good old-fashioned cooking that makes the ingredient the star. The menu changes daily, but keep your eyes peeled for the Middle White terrine or pork belly (from £16).
32 Great Queen Street, Covent Garden (020 7242 0622)

Paternoster Chop House
Peter Weeden takes meat very, very seriously. Yes, you will find classic roasts or bangers and mash, but Weeden is also very hot on culinary traditions from your granny's day, such as pork pies, brawn and potted pork made using Berkshires and Middle Whites.
Warwick Court, Paternoster Square, EC1 (020 7029 9400)

St John
The home of "nose to tail" eating. Chef Fergus Henderson's Smithfield restaurant offers a guided tour of the porcine anatomy via Middle White, Gloucester Old Spot and Saddleback bath chaps (tongue'n'cheek), rolled spleen and chitterlings (intestines). All genuinely delicious.
26 St John Street, EC1 (020 7251 0848)

Fifteen
Jamie Oliver's Hoxton restaurant should have us all on first-name terms with farmer Peter Gott. The trattoria on the ground floor uses his Saddleback pork in handmade tortellini (£9), while the main restaurant offers Saddleback slowcooked with braised celeriac and Bramley apple (£22).
15 Westland Place, Hoxton (0871 330 1515)

The Fat Badger
Head chef Will Leigh is devoted to the survival of rare-breed pigs and, as such, uses mainly Middle White pork on the menu which he gets from Huntsham Farm and says is the best pig he's ever tasted. Currently you can try his Middle White pork and prune pie (£11.50), but the menu changes regularly.
310 Portobello Road, Notting Hill (thefatbadger.com)

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