As a starter, salt and pepper squid salad with a sweet chilli dressing is exemplary - well-cooked squid, good green stuff, a twinge of chilli. Parma ham with caramelised beetroot and red onions is a terrific dish, with lots of sound ham and a pile of hot beetroot and onions adding complementary flavours. Even that old stager, chicken-liver pate, is a success, with a good, slightly coarse texture. Mains are 'in-your-face-ordinary' and none the worse for that. Chicken and ham pie, char-grilled sirloin steak, fresh tuna steak pan-fried, smoked haddock fishcake, rarebit sauce and spinach. The pie is tipped out of its dish on to your plate and the flaky pastry crust added. It is an enormous portion, well-seasoned, with tender meat. The fishcake comes with a splendid cheesy sauce and fresh spinach.
