The menu is a minefield

Not many Indian restaurants in Paddington have a wine list that offers Château Lafite 1995 at £495 or, perhaps more to the point, mineral water at £6 for 800ml. It was that Voss brand which looks as though decanted into large shampoo bottles.

Jasbinder Singh, chef of the recently opened Jamuna, has trained with the Oberoi group and worked at Cinnamon Club and Mint Leaf. He has brought along with him their sort of high-end pricing, but it sits awkwardly in a Paddington front room with serried ranks of tables and mustard-coloured walls.

That kind of setting doesn't prepare you for black cod at £27 or Rajasthani venison at £22 or, indeed, steamed rice at £3.50. We picked our way carefully through what seemed like a minefield of prices, not because it was Indian food but because of the surroundings, service and assiduous portion control.

I like to share dishes when eating an Indian meal but servings here meant that divvying up (delectable) khilley phool made of broccoli with cheese, green chillies and cinnamon gave us about a sprig and a half each.

Pan-fried chicken cakes (murgh bemisal) and lamb-and-lentil patties (shami kebab), slightly more generously dealt out, were well made, vigorously spiced, and garnished with curling strings of raw carrot and beetroot which added to the overall impact.

Marinated lamb chops cooked in the tandoor can usually be relied upon to please, and they did, but we would have liked to see more for £20.

The flavours of fresh ginger, coriander and curry leaves sang out in southern Indian mapla chicken, but without wanting to sound hopelessly greedy, it was also a paltry portion. Kitchen margins must surely thrill the accountant when curried chick peas and also dal are £7 a serving.

Never mind the Château Lafite - apparently two bottles have been sold to Americans - the wines generally are lavishly marked-up, way beyond rationality. If the owners want a successful restaurant with appeal to locals they should slash the prices.

That way the definitely superior cooking of Mr Singh could play to a wider audience than - on the night we were there - a restaurant critic on expenses and a table of American businessmen.

Jamuna
38a Southwick Street, W2