The Hart for romance

The Hartley Bar & Dining Room opened last year opposite the former jam factory - hence the name - in a relatively inglorious part of Bermondsey. But like much of South-East London, Bermondsey is still on the up, and the gentrified Hartley is reflecting this change to one of our urban villages.

Even the old jam factory has been gentrified, converted into luxury apartments which now provide a new generation of punters for this former pub. But just as gentrification doesn't sit easily with all, the Hartley's new life wasn't without its problems, as querulous former customers demonstrated a not insignificant amount of resistance to the changes.

Time and customers move on, though, and the Hartley is now maturing into a significant destination venue and top-quality community pub. What we have here is a single room, brightly decorated in contemporary cafe style and with a seemingly seamless division between the casual bar area and dining room of rickety old furniture.

The bar counter has pride of place along the length of one wall and offers a pedestrian range of draught beers - Stella Artois, Carlsberg, Staropramen and Boddingtons (keg) - but what lies beneath the counter is an excellent range of bottled beers including Duckstein, Paulaner, Friuli, Leffe Blonde and Pilsner Urquell.

The Hartley's wine list covers all the bases in its eclectic selection of 30 New and Old World classics (11 by the glass). Bins are priced at between £11.50 and £36, and of particular note are a white 2002 Marques de Caceres rioja (£15.50), and a red Gamay les Montees (£13.50), which is served chilled.

The rosé season is upon us and the Hartley offers two - a 2002 Chateau Amphoux (£15.50), and a Sancerre Rosé les Garennes at £22.50. Those of you who enjoy a chilled glass of rosé on warm days might want to avoid sancerre. Excellent though these wines are, they tend to appeal to a sweeter palate and the aroma and flavour of alcohol is often usurped by the fruitiness of the drink.

But it's the food that's making the Hartley such a popular draw. An open kitchen at the back of the room churns out superior dishes such as a starter of octopus salad (£4.50), mains of pork belly and pig's head (£13), macaroni cheese (£8.50), and home-made burgers (£7.50). Keep an eye out for the daily specials and do leave room for desserts, including a chocolate almond cake with vanilla ice cream (£4.50) and Mrs Appleby's famous cheese, cox pippins and ginger biscuits (£5.50).

This place has a grown-up atmosphere that will appeal to grown-up people who will enjoy the convivial - romantic, almost - candlelit atmosphere. It's jolly without being side-splittingly fun, and occasional live, acoustic music lifts the atmosphere.

I will definitely go back, but probably only when I have romantic matters to attend to.

The Hartley Bar & Dining Rooms
64 Tower Bridge Road, SE1 4TR